Posted on by Dave Crofton

Sure, I know Melissa Clark.  We go way back.

Well, I guess I only know people that know Melissa Clark.  We've never officially met, but I've been reading her Times’ articles for years. I’m sure we’d be fast friends… Am I too much like some geeky 8th grader who claims to know a popular girl in 9th grade?  Maybe, but that’s because; a) I’m a geek, and b) she’s a popular girl.  Regardless, she’s a great writer and her recipes are spot on.  Basically, she’s righteous.  So, when I read about cultured butter in the March issue of Food and Wine, it reminded me about how inspired I was by the article Melissa wrote in the Times last year.

In the One Girl kitchen we make cultured butter with a simple recipe of cream, home-made yogurt, and a little sea salt.  We serve it with biscuits and scones for breakfast.  Me, I don’t need any excuse for eating a biscuit.  If I did it would be cultured butter.  This stuff is so good that we recently had to limit the bakers’ butter intake because we were going through too much before it even made it to the café.

We started making cultured butter a couple of years ago, but all that time I just thought it was butter. I got the recipe, word of mouth, from a bookstore owner in Portland, Maine.  “Sneak some yogurt into the cream and let it sit overnight before you make the butter” she said.  So I did, and it worked.  I was shocked.  But I never really thought much about the ‘cultured’ part of it. I just sort of figured it was a clever little butter trick.  I had no idea it was a special ‘thing,’ until Melissa helped me figure it all out.

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Back in October of 2013 she wrote a great article on cultured butter.  She also did a video with Florence Fabricant, who happens to be a righteous lady herself.  Thanks to that piece, I realized that what we had been making all this time was cultured butter.  Basically, you need to add a tangy element to the cream before you churn the butter.  Cultured butter has a deeper, more intense flavor and a creamier texture than plain butter.  It’s just better, plain and simple.  Cultured butter has been around for ages, (Wikipedia told me so) but lately has been coming back in fashion.

So, for those of you who like butter and want to be on the cutting edge of breakfast foods, I urge you to make some at home. It is easy and intensely satisfying.  You could even go to a nice cheese shop and get some fancy stuff for yourself.  And just in case you can’t find your own cultured butter by tomorrow morning, come to One Girl for breakfast.

As for my new friend, Melissa; stop on by the kitchen when you can.  I’m working on a recipe for home-made almond milk to use when I make some of your chia-seed breakfast pudding. The biscuits and butter are on me!

Posted on by Dave Crofton | Posted in cobble hill

Dave Crofton

About Dave Crofton

Dave Crofton, co-owner of One Girl Cookies, began his culinary career baking artisanal bread in Richmond, Virginia. He moved to New York City to attend the Institute of Culinary Education, and graduated with a degree in Baking and Pastry Arts. While in school, he took a part time job with One Girl Cookies to help develop and expand their line of handmade tea cookies. Upon graduation, he became a partner with Dawn Casale, the founder of One Girl Cookies. Two years later, Dawn and Dave opened their bakery and cafe in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn in 2005. Since the opening day and continuing into their new cafe in Dumbo, Dawn and Dave believe in using the finest ingredients available and baking everything from scratch.

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